Chemical peel or treatments with low/acidic pH products—which is preferable for sensitive, problematic, and dehydrated skin?

"Acid intolerance is an increasingly common condition, most often resulting from improper use of acids, allergies, or prolonged treatment with harsh products." 

Red spots, cystic lesions, itching, and hypersensitive skin are some of the side effects of using high concentrations of acids in skincare. So instead of achieving an improved, healthy, beautiful complexion, you end up struggling with worsening skin conditions.

Is it possible that acids, despite their purpose and properties, could be harmful?

Yes, of course. The increasing ease of access to and availability of acids is a risk that certainly does not always lead to positive results in the hands of inexperienced users. High-concentration acids can easily be purchased at stores that sell cosmetic ingredients and online. In our opinion, their sale should be completely banned, but legal loopholes allow it, and so we have dangerous compounds readily available to the public that can cause severe chemical burns, damage your eyesight, and disfigure you permanently.

Our advice is not to use acids if you don’t know enough about them. We understand that buying acids is cost-effective because not everyone can afford a chemical peel under the supervision of an experienced dermatologist or cosmetologist, but before you reach for something harsh, you need to be well-informed on the subject. We believe that some acids should be avoided in high concentrations, and if you do use them, you should do so under the supervision of experts. This is because acids can damage even the most beautiful skin if they aren’t tailored to its specific needs.

What are acids?

These are chemical compounds that have keratolytic properties. They break down the substances that bind cells together, thereby facilitating their removal. Their potency depends on their concentration and pH, which must be controlled. A lower pH and higher concentration result in greater keratolytic capacity. The higher the pH, the better the solution is tolerated and the lower its exfoliating effect. Acids at low concentrations also have a positive effect on epidermal regulation, especially when the skin becomes clogged very quickly, excessive keratinization occurs, and the skin cannot cope with the exfoliation of the dead stratum corneum. You should also know that not all of us have a low pH. For example, in acne-prone skin and cases of moderate to severe acne, the pH can reach 9, whereas the normal range for the skin is 4.5 to 5. Each of us has a different level of acidity, and people with more sensitive skin may experience regular inflammation after a chemical peel instead of effective exfoliation. In many cases, acids benefit the skin, but if the product and formula aren’t balanced, they cause severe irritation and increase inflammation and redness. The culprit behind the irritation is usually the wrong acid—a pH that’s too low combined with a concentration that’s too high.

We don’t blame acids for their effects, but often, instead of risking their use, it’s enough to research a good, proven-effective treatment with a relatively low pH and start following the basic steps of facial care: thorough cleansing, regulating sebum production, balancing the microbiome, gentle hydration, and restoring the skin’s protective barrier.

Our advice is: choose clinically tested products with a naturally slightly acidic pH.

The slightly acidic pH allows you to enjoy the benefits of a low pH without the risk of severe irritation. These products will act more gently but will not disrupt the skin’s protective barrier.

Snowborn’s probiotic products arenext-generation. They have a low pH of 4–5, are gentle on the skin’s microbiome, and are naturally derived. The formulas are light and balanced, provide natural exfoliation, and are gentle on the skin. They combine gentle exfoliation with daily care to restore bacterial balance and the skin’s natural functions, such as hydration, balanced sebum production, UV protection, anti-pathogenic defense, and a rapid immune response to inflammation.

Use a cream and toner with a low pH.

The emollients contained in creams and toners counteract the effects of acids, moisturize the epidermis, prevent dehydration during treatment, and enhance the hydrating properties of ingredients that are more gentle on the skin.

Naturally, there are many compounds in nature that contain active ingredients which prevent excessive keratinization and sebum buildup, regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, and are much better tolerated than harsh acids.

1) Lactic acidgently exfoliates, giving your skin a visible boost of freshness and radiance, making it soft and balancing its pH levels. It gently exfoliates by breaking down dead skin cells, clearing away toxins, and improving collagen production, all while providing excellent moisturizing properties. It is often found in various cosmetic products, including toners and cleansing gels.

2) Peruvian mushroom and ginger extractshave magical properties. They thoroughly cleanse, detoxify, balance sebum production, and tighten pores. They are indispensable for caring for impure and oily skin with enlarged pores and a tendency toward acne.

Back to Balance Micellar Water isover 99% natural and free of synthetic preservatives, parabens, alcohol, sulfates, and fragrance. It has a pH of 4.5 and contains lactic acid and Peruvian mushroom extract.

3) Probiotic enzymes and prebiotics.They work differently from acids — they can be used to treat inflammatory acne because they inhibit inflammation and restore the skin — whereas acids only exfoliate the top layer of the epidermis and lack properties that stimulate the microbiome responsible for the skin’s natural defense. Probiotics are cultures of beneficial bacteria that produce antipathogenic proteins—bacteriocins—which naturally lower the pH of the environment, preventing pathogenic bacteria from thriving.

The Back to Balance moisturizing cream isunique and specially formulated for oily skin. It has a low pH of 4, which provides gentle exfoliation while balancing sebum production and removing blackheads. Like all products in the line, it contains probiotic enzymes and prebiotics to soothe the skin and restore its bacterial balance, which is always severely disrupted by chemical peels.

The Spots Never Again active fluid alsocontains niacinamide, squalane, and turmeric and ginger oils, which have been clinically proven to be highly effective for acne-prone skin and moderate acne. The entire treatment has been proven to eliminate blackheads, microcysts, and inflammatory pimples by up to 70% within the first 4 weeks.

4) Natural lipids workin many ways: they help restore the lipid barrier, soothe the skin, brighten the complexion, and strengthen the skin.

The Restore to Defense protective lipid creamsoothes the skin and reduces redness, smooths the skin, evens out the complexion, and strengthens the lipid barrier, which is severely compromised after a chemical peel.

The Glow Skin Detox Cleansing Gelis 100% natural, formulated with seawater and seaweed for hydration, and contains natural foaming agents. It is gentle on the skin without drying it out or leaving it greasy.

 If you do decide to undergo a chemical peel, apply soothing creams about 30 minutes after applying the acid solution. By applying emollients and soothing ingredients to skin treated with acids, you’ll prevent excessive dehydration, increase tolerance, and minimize flaking, as well as the onset of seborrheic dermatitis, which can occur when acids are used on dry skin.

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